Destination: havana

Language: Spanish

Climate: Average 67 Degrees Winter, 81 Degrees Summer

Currency: U.S. Dollar Preferred

o you finally make it to Havana . . . its streets lined with Spanish colonial architecture, alive with the sounds of salsa, mambo guaguanco and la nueva trova, its 1950s Oldsmobiles and Soviet Volgas puttering by, the smell of frijloes, pollo and perna wafting from the small paladares restaurants to either side.

Havana - divorced from America for so many years - boasts a mystique overshadowing any other port of call in the Caribbean, and each hour you spend here is memorable. Make every one of them count, soak in as much of you can of a place that cannot possibly be explored fully in a few days, or even a few weeks.

The arrival into port is one of the most spectacular to be found anywhere. Passengers line the decks as the ship enters the channel - save yourself a post at the ship's bow, so you can savor the towering view of Morro Castle to your left and the Havana skyline to your right. When the ship docks, you will be greeted immediately by the sight of Cuban dancers performing at the pier, swiveling their hips in rapid-fire figure eights just for you - a taste of the nightime's Tropicana show in the afternoon.

The terminal could not be more perfectly located: walk through its doors into the street beyond and your are suddenly transported into the very thick of La Habana Vieja - Old Havana. You find yourself amidst one of the town's most picturesque squares: Plaza de San Francisco. Horse-drawn carriages idle, Habaneros sit in the shade, talking to each other about their favorite baseball star, "El Duque" Hernandez, and the cobbled street to the north, Calle Oficios, leads you onward, to yet another marvel, the Plaza de Armas, with its central statue of Manuel de Cespedes, hero of Cuba's Ten Year War. All of it, just a few blocks from the ship!

There's so much to see. So here's a few tips from CruiseHavana:

When walking the historic district, remember that La Habana Vieja Norte, the northern section, has been more thoroughly restored than its southern counterpart. There are many sites to see to the south and west, but for your first afternoon, stick to La Habana Vieja Norte. For your second day in Havana, venture further afield.

FOOD & DRINK - It is illegal for Americans to spend any U.S. dollars during their stay. However, CruiseHavana has been told by those who have done so, and digested the evidence of their transgressions, that there many, many spectacular places to eat and drink here. In La Habana Vieja, you'll find the famous La Bodeguita del Medio, a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, and a fine place for a mojito. You'll also be extremely tempted by El Patio, the bubbling social center of the Plaza de la Catedral, and its umbrella-shaded tables in the square. In Centro Habana, the district just to east of Old Havana, the El Floridita restaurant comes highly recommended, and is well worth its steep prices (steep by Havana standards, that is, not New York's). If you're following the path of Hemingway, this is yet another key stop on the circuit, where Papa enjoyed his multiple daily daiquiris.

CIGARS - It is also, of course, illegal for Americans to purchase cigars during their visit to Havana. That being said, the Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas in Centro Habana is a well-traveled stop for tourists, complete with a 500-person factory and a place for visiting cigar aficionados to enjoy a smoke and a cocktail.

HABANEROS - The residents of Havana (Habaneros) are extremely friendly, and you will undoubtedly meet many of them during your brief stay. Remember, however, that times are extremely hard for them, because of the U.S. trade embargo, and Habaneros are extremely hungry for U.S. dollars. Often, men approaching you will seek to guide you through the city, in return for money, or will attempt to bring you to one of the town's many paladares, private restaurants which often turn out to be a kitchen in someone's home.

Tourists are often approached by local women as well, who offer another kind of service. Whoever you are approached by, and you will be approached quite often, a simple "No thank you" will do the trick if you care to walk alone.

In any event, Habaneros are always happy to talk, especially to Americans (they are as obsessed with Americans as Americans are with Cubans), and it is an unfair overstatement to assume that all Habaneros approaching you are after U.S. dollars alone. A trip to Havana would not be complete without meeting its local people - and you will, in the shops, the restaurants, and the squares. They are unlike any other people you will meet, determined to live life despite their hardships.

GETTING AROUND - Walking is simply the best way to get around Old Havana and the adjacent districts, but if you prefer not to, a colorful array of transportation can be found at a moment's notice, whether it's a classic car; a ciclotaxi (a rickshaw-like bicycle taxi which is extremely inexpensive); a cocotaxi (a very strange looking vehicle - like a large plastic motorized egg with three wheels); or a caleza (horse-drawn buggy).

In the end, wherever you wander in Havana, you'll find what you're looking for - a truly unique experience, unmatched in the Caribbean.